Bridger, Big Sky, Targhee, Jackson 1/25 - 2/1/14

Last season, I traveled to Montana and Wyoming to ski Big Sky and Grand Targhee. Though I considered a new ski destination for this season, the potent combination of amazing terrain, great snow, and nonexistent crowds was too tough to resist. Not wanting to repeat the same trip itinerary, I added a couple of mountains to the mix: Bridger Bowl, and Jackson Hole (and the former Moonlight Basin).

The trip started with a direct flight from Newark to Bozeman, MT where I arrived at approximately 11am. My ski buddy wasn't arriving until late that evening, so I decided to spend the afternoon at Bridger Bowl. I picked up my luggage, secured the rental car, and drove the 45 minutes to the mountain to buy a half day ticket. By about 12:30 in the afternoon I was on the hill!

Bridger Bowl is considered more of a local mountain rather than a destination resort. Despite this, it has terrain on par with some biggest and best in the west. Some of the locals I spoke to liken it to a smaller Jackson Hole. Now having skied JH, I agree with that assessment. They both showcase technical terrain, and tons of cliffs and boulders to launch off of.

Bridger is most famous for it's expert terrain off of the ridge. Skiers and riders are required to carry avalanche beacons while hiking the ridge or riding the Schlasman's lift which services the southern most portion of the area. Only having an afternoon at Bridger, I chose to stay in the areas not requiring a beacon. Though I would love to explore the rest of the mountain on a future trip, I got a good feel for the mountain with the limited amount of terrain I was able to sample.

Snow conditions were quite good considering there had not been a major snowfall in over two weeks. With temperatures at nearly 40 degrees and the sun shining bright, spring conditions dominated the sunnier aspects, and chalky snow was the norm for northern exposures. Highlights included the soft bumps under the Bridger lift, and Exit Chute on the Nose.


My only photo taken at Bridger



The next day, I drove an hour from Bozeman to Big Sky. Big Sky resort is now officially the largest single ski resort in the U.S. at over 5,700 acres. Though the mountain is comparable in acreage to Vail, it only sees 370,000 visitors as opposed to the 1.6 million that frequent Vail. Because of this, Big Sky's best attribute is the lack of people. It makes any other mountain feel crowded.

High pressure dominated my three days at Big Sky. A few inches one night helped liven the slopes one day, but otherwise conditions were fast from over two weeks of warm temperatures and no new snow. Great for ripping groomers, but not so much for exploring off piste. Southern exposures were crusty and unenjoyable. The Challenger lift offered some decent snow if you stuck to the eastern exposures. The northern exposures in the area formerly known as Moonlight Basin offered the best overall skiing at the resort. I particularly enjoyed the runs off of Lone Tree and some of the lower angle glades that are sprinkled about.


Glade at Moonlight



Big Sky is most famous for its huge selection of steeps on Lone Peak. Unfortunately, high winds, and little recent snow left many of the chutes in sketchy condition. Not that I would ski many of them anyways. The Headwaters and A - Z's are up there for the most extreme in North America.


The eastern exposure of Lone Peak



I ventured up the tram to the top of Lone Peak only twice. Ski patrol was warning passengers of slide for life conditions-- which was somewhat accurate. Both times I stuck to Liberty Bowl which I later came to regret when I found out that skier's right of Marx had some soft snow unlike the crust found in Liberty. I didn't dare tackle the Dictator Chutes this trip where I had last year experienced knee deep powder.


The easy way down from Lone Peak

A storm moved into Big Sky on the last night promising lots of fresh turns with little crowds, but it was time to head south to Grand Targhee. I left Big Sky by 6 am and made the 3 hour ride to Targhee. Treacherous roads tacked on an additional hour to the trip. The worst portion was along the Gallatin River on the way to Yellowstone where tractor trailers would blind you as they passed.

Once at Grand Targhee, I took my time getting ready. I had a leisurely breakfast at Snorkel's while the snow continued to accumulate-- covering up the nasty crust wreaked from weeks of high pressure. By late in the morning, approximately 5 inches had accumulated.

I was quite familiar with the terrain at Targhee having spent a few days there last year. Despite this, I made the mistake of making my first run down towards Patrol Chutes which is on a more southerly aspect. The fresh snow was not deep enough to cover the crusty snow underneath. I quickly retreated to other areas such as the Blackfoot lift where snow always seems to accumulate. The snow was much deeper over there as the wind had piled it up into plush pillows. I spent much of the day doing laps at Blackfoot.




Fresh snow!



My day at Targhee complete, I drove an hour or so over the Teton Pass to Jackson Hole. Just as I was headed towards the pass it started puking snow! Though I had some trepidation heading over the pass during a major snow storm, it wasn't all that bad in an all wheel drive vehicle. Perhaps my experience driving in the lake effect snow in Buffalo helped as well.

Jackson Hole received a foot of fresh snow overnight. I could not have been any more excited to ski Jackson! Unfortunately, my first day was at Jackson was not a totally pleasant one. It had been weeks since the last snowfall and every powder hound showed up to the mountain foaming at the mouth seeking fresh snow. Perhaps I had been spoiled by the solitude of Big Sky, but I was suddenly waiting at least 20 minutes in the single lines at every chair! WTF!

I tried escaping the frenzy at the Thunder and Sublette Chairs and headed towards the skier's left side of the mountain to find fresh tracks and short lines. I found neither. I only became more frustrated as I ventured more and more out of the way only to find everything tracked out and the lift lines still insufferable. Maybe I was having a bad day. My legs were tired. But I just wasn't feeling JH that day.


Not feeling it. Not sure why.



Thankfully, the mountain redeemed itself the remaining two days (or maybe I redeemed myself?). An additional 8 inches freshened the slopes the first night, and 3 inches the second. The powder hounds having had their feast, lift lines were more manageable, and I managed get to know how to navigate the mountain better so that I could find the fresh snow. I found the mountain extremely demanding yet playful. It is easy to see why it is a top destination-- especially for expert skiers and riders.





Finally, I flew out of Jackson on Sunday just in time to catch the game from the plane...


Flying over the Super Bowl en route to Newark

Outstanding!  Especially on a pitch with a view; can't be sightseeing without knowing where you're going.  Good for you!

Ski You on the Hill.

Great report.

Good call going to the Blackfoot lift at Targhee; that's always the place to go for the best snow if the other lift pods aren't doing as well.

On the powder-frenzy day at JH, were the Saratoga and Casper Bowls overrun too? The hardcores usually don't bother with those sectors.

By the time I worked my way over to Saratoga Bowl and Casper they had been hit pretty hard as well. Not to mention, the snow on the lower half of the mountain was dense and wet even by eastern standards since the first portion of the storm was so warm and moist. Not stuff I was eager to lap. Crowds were less of an issue over there for sure.

I love the Blackfoot lift at Targhee.  It is old slow and serves up the best powder.