Listen, the skis were twenty bucks at a garage sale but they seem to have some spring in them. The guy claimed he couldn’t handle them and moved the bindings to another pair after 3 or 4 days. If I can find a shop that will do it I don’t mind making them into $120 skis in order to make sure it’s right but that’s about as far as I’ll go. So I’m thinking I’m on my own. I’ll pull out the potential donor bindings some time this week but those skis are at least ten years old too so I doubt I’m getting my hands on a jig. This is most likely a low tech garage sort of thing. The more I think about it the more I don’t want to even buy any new tools. So I’m looking for ad how solutions. I’m not gonna do it “the right way”.
Edit: I seem to have lost my caliper so I may end up buying one new tool. There are some good suggestions on how to find centerline in the tgr thread but I feel like I want to be able check my work
I have mounted several pairs of tele bindings, which I would argue are a little more forgiving than alpine bindings. Release is not an issue and you just have to get them in the right position. Then hope they don't explode out of the ski. Finding center is the fun part:
Here is a good post on the topic, if you haven't found it already:
Use the holes that are currently on it for the by eye center point. You wont be far off if at all and do both skis the same.
put the skis in your vice, tape the drill bit. Put the binding on top where you want them. Clamp them down. Use a punch to make the starter holes and have at it. Put some cement in the wholes to hold the screws in. If they rip out on your first run you know you did it wrong. You have every tool you need. Pictures of the process please
How old are Those? They look like 1st gen shaped skis
Not sure they are worth the effort
Ok here is an incomplete list of what you can screw up and what could happen if you do
You drill the pattern wrong so binding won’t attach or screws pull outer boot won’t allow for proper forward pressure
You drill and mount lateral not in center - really ski weird and screws could pull out
You don’t mount on centerline - skis will ski weird
You don’t mount both both off same center - will ski really weird
Don’t drill perpendicular to base - screws either won’t go in or will pull out while you are skiing
Knowing how deep to drill - each flat mounted ski requires one of many different drill bits based on the design of the ski as to the material and the layer in the ski where the screws are Intended to be anchored. Either could punch the PTex or screws will pull out. The bit is listed in the tech manual from K2 which you don’t have.
Some skis if they have metal top skeets also require tapping.
Btw the worst thing that can happen is the screws pull out while you are skiing and your mount semi attached. That will seriously mess you up. If you don’t hurt yourself and get the free sled ride you get to walk down from the top of the Gondi.
I don’t see how this ski is worth the risk but hey maybe you have really great health insurance. Make a chair out of them
if You French Fry when you should Pizza you are going to have a bad time
Btw the worst thing that can happen is the screws pull out while you are skiing
This happened to me on a ski mounted by Inside Edge. I had maybe three days on them. Since I didn't really know how to ski on one ski and had never practiced it (seems like the racers do this) I just decide to try to fall down as safely as I could. I don't believe anyone was hurt by my ski.
I was at Gore and had to walk down about 1000 feet of vert. tBatt found them in the netting for the park and turned them in to lost and found, who the violated their written policy of holding lost items for a week. They tossed it "because it was broken." Inside Edge would not honor any kind of replacement because I couldn't produce the broken ski.
As you can tell I never got over it.
"You just need to go at that shit wide open, hang on, and own it." —Camp
Its 2019. If you are reusing the old holes get some that double tube epoxy. I once put back together the magnesium casing of the timing chain on a one lunged Alouette snowmobile. It lasted the life time of the sled.
Now we’re talking. Thanks guys. I saw a reference to using steel wool when re-using old holes but I haven’t tracked down the step by step so I guess that’s my next research goal.
I believe that refers to making fine particles of steel wool by rubbing between your fingers, then mixing with epoxy glue. I have this the re-use holes on some Swiss-cheesed skis (eg. the Sick Birds). Theoretically all the fine metal particles give the screw something extra to grab on to.
I agree with the epoxy comment above, Plumber's Epoxy is the bomb. Don't use G-Flex for this application.
Having said all that, Z makes some very good points.