Advice for new boater

A rock in the loading ramp?  I heard it was unpaved

Slow loading and unloading is my only speed at present

If you're going to lake hop, be mindful of invasive species. More and more lakes have signs posted about milfoil, zebra mussels, etc. at all launches. Some of the more traveled lakes have more invasive action than others, but always wash your boat inside and out before going to another lake. There's nothing that bleach can't kill!!

And just a personal preference for me- if you have carpeting on the floor of your boat, I would take it out. It will just get grimy and smell over time, plus it's easier to clean the boat later. Otherwise, enjoy!!!

Of course safety first..too many bad thing can happen..
second : Cash and lots of it.. you'll need it.. B.O.A.T stands for Bang Out Another Thousand.. I grew up boating...
Have Fun!!

JasonWx wrote

Of course safety first..too many bad thing can happen..
second : Cash and lots of it.. you'll need it.. B.O.A.T stands for Bang Out Another Thousand.. I grew up boating...
Have Fun!!

Well hopefully you got the boat for free because they can be damn hard to unload.
My 20 year venture into boating ended when I finally unloaded my last sailboat about 15 years ago. Never was a stink potter. Keep the credit card up to date.

Having charts is a good thing, knowing how to use them is even better and that requires understanding how to use a compass. A GPS is OK as well but understanding how to plot a course and what magnetic variance or declination is is better. Understanding what a green or red mark means, the difference between a nun and a can, etc. It can be easier than you think to get lost on a big lake or simply misjudge your position and run into that submerged island.

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njadk wrote

If you're going to lake hop, be mindful of invasive species. More and more lakes have signs posted about milfoil, zebra mussels, etc. at all launches. Some of the more traveled lakes have more invasive action than others, but always wash your boat inside and out before going to another lake. There's nothing that bleach can't kill!!

This includes flushing out the motor and washing the trailer. Watch for plant matter. A pain for sure but very important. Too damn many invasives anymore.

Or if you just go to one lake like me, no worries. I'm glad LG instituted a boat check policy. Long over due, IMO. Their's is easy. They check your boat out and will wash it and flush motor for free if needed.

Tows can sometimes be had for free. Hoist your distress flag on a paddle/ boat's top or get on the radio and maybe some kindly boat will tow you in. I have in the past. Some guys run a buddy system, a " call me if you need towed " system. Tows can cost $300-$500 and up. Which brings up another point, carry some extra light line(tying distress flag up, etc) and a good stout line for towing, a good tubing line should work.

The boaters insurance I got comes with free towing

I got all the safety stuff and tubing stuff with the boat.  I ordered a Maine radio and battery charger / inflator yesterday.

I need to give the anchor back so how long of an anchor line do I need to get?  I know I need chain as well.

How do you wash out the bilge?

Yeah drive over there and take a look at it.     Its a pretty decent size pond with not a ton of traffic.  

It sounds a lot worse than it is.  Full disclosure I never backed the boat in but would not hesitate to .  Just not my call.  If you have a person on the dock with a rope on the front and back and go slow its a a snap.  

Its going to be your go to place once you check it out.  

You gave a lot of good info but the doom and gloom was a little over the top.  Just like in this post.

Thanks

Might check Taylor Pond out this weekend

Probably good fishing there

Need to figure out how to use my fish finder

Looks like there are some gps for about 200 bucks as well

Has any used any of the iPhone apps for marine navigation?  There are a ton of them so they must work ok and much cheaper to just get a mount for my iPhone on the dash.

People do use them just keep in mind they're not charts. As you probably know, maps of any kind are not charts. People do go without either.  Just be careful. Keep your watch out.

TJ, sorry but in my mind, if I know something and don't share it with another, then how would it be if they later suffered because of it ? Best to let them know ahead of time, IMO.

Another gorgeous boating day here and I gotta work . Work's ok, it just really messes up the day.

Coach Z wrote

 I need to give the anchor back so how long of an anchor line do I need to get?  I know I need chain as well.

Make sure it's a floating line. 100 ft ish should work. for you as most times you won't be too deep. 2-3 ft chain sucks. 5-6 ft is better. Connect two if you have too. Secure clevis's pin with a wire tie off or else they may work loose, anchor lost. General rule is you need a 7-1 scope. This means in 10 ft of water you need 70ft of anchor line out. This can vary either way depending upon wind and waves.

Many times I use less line successfully. The airhead stretchy helps a lot as it takes out the shock. When the anchor's set, tie a slip knot in the anchor line, clip a  6ft airhead on it to secure it to the boat. Tie end of anchor line off to boat. This last weekend it was more wavey and I had to go longer but some good waves came in from boats and my boat never drifted.

Extension cord storage wheels work good for storing anchor line. Without knowing how to set the anchor, it will not work. Watched this last weekend as people tried to anchor then they just drifted away finally giving up. A good set anchor will hold very well. Basically you lower the anchor until you feel it hit the bottom, THEN STOP. Then slowly move boat backwards as you slowly lower the line being careful to keep the chain from piling up on top of anchor is key. Keep going back until the line is at an approximate 45 degree angle. Put boat in neutral, tug on anchor line firmly to set anchor then secure the line. To retrieve anchor, move boat until it's above the anchor and pull on the line. This shifts the anchor's neck up and levers the anchor loose. Sometimes you may have to work at it or pull it loose the other direction with the boat.

Bottom conditions dictate anchor types. Rocky bottoms need grappling type anchors but most of the time danforths, etc work as the bottom is muddy.

Newer design box shape and hour glass shaped anchors are said to hold extremely well and can be used with less scope. Sometimes that's desired depending on how much room you have. These collapse for storage. Danforths work well if set right. There's vids on the web.

OH yea, stay well away from dams, above and below. Dams are death. Sorry TJ.

Here's what a box anchor looks like(@ bottom). Your boat is little and probably the conditions you'll encounter will only require a Danforth (cheaper than box) or some such. But if you want or feel you'll need more hold or have less room to scope, get a box or hourglass. I also carry a river anchor incase I need to also secure the stern. My boat is a good size pontoon so I have more storage than you and can even carry a portapotty using the pop up " shower curtain " under the rear sunpad for privacy. Before anyone comments " slow pontoon " I'll say my toon has performance pontoons and will run 45 mph so my 135 hp " floating living room " is fast and get much better gas mileage than V-hulls or standard toons.

Here's a pic of a boat like mine. We love it. LOTS of room, a sink, 3 big lounges to stretch out on, pulls skiers, tubers.



http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2050601.m570.l2632.R2.TR3.TRC2.A0.H1.Xbox+anchor&_nkw=box+anchor&_sacat=26443

Don't be flying across the water with your top up. Tops act like sails and can rip loose in these conditions. I know of people who didn't think of this and ruined their tops. It's easy to forget it's up.

Be mindful of you engine rpms. Your owner's manual will tell what the max is. Many times a boat doesn't have the proper propeller pitch/diameter even if it came from the dealer with that prop. To verify this, on a calm day, with an Average load on boat, run the boat up to full throttle. If it maxes out at or near the manufacture's rpm level. It's prop-ed proper. If it's way less than you could use more pitch if you want more speed. If it goes above the max, not enough pitch/diameter is had. It may not matter to you just don't run it over or at max rpms. Prolonged max rpms is not good . If the tachometer is off then the results a skewed.

Guys like to determine this when they want more towing power or more speed. Pontoon guys wax over this as many make the mistake of not getting performance toons.

Coach,  Boating is loads of fun I,ve had a boat for 30 yrs and love it.  But along the way I've also heard this old saying many times: What are the 2 happiest days for a boat owner? The day you buy it and the day you sell it.

You should really enjoy it being a snow skier, I'll bet you'll be waterskiing behind It soon.

Taylor pond is perfect. Big Lake trout ib there. The middle channel is 100+ deep. After this weekend the camping at the intensive use area drops way off but even this weekend should not be crowded. The launch limits size of boats and yours will be fine. It's the backing the trailer in that is tricky.  

Another beautiful spot is upper Saranac Lake putting in at the state launch at Saranac inn.  

Once you feel comfortable w your captain skills going from Lake flower to middle Saranac is a must.

Also from Jay you are not too far from Schroon Lake.  

But mike k is right, the best lakes are the ones w/out motors!  

ScottyJack wrote

Also from Jay you are not too far from Schroon Lake.

Pitkins restaurant in Schroon has a good BBQ menu. Right downtown.