Fernie, B.C.: 2/12, 2/13, 2/14, 2/18/17

Averaging over 370" of snow, Fernie Alpine Resort has a well-deserved reputation as a being one of the premier destinations for powder in the Canadian Rockies and interior B.C.. Fernie is only eclipsed in the region by Whitewater, which arguably has less diversity of terrain and is significantly smaller. However, all of this snow comes with a downside. Fernie's low elevation and warmer microclimate means it can be subjected to rain on occasion. Booking a trip in advance, although never a sure thing anywhere, has higher stakes here.


Polar Peak & The Currie Bowl:



Sadly, I experienced much of the downsides of Fernie during my week there. Just before my arrival, freezing rain trashed the 4 feet of snow that had fallen over the previous week, leaving a rain crust on all but the highest of elevations.

My first day on the hill, I sampled various aspects and mountain areas trying to find any off-piste worth skiing. Polar Peak was closed––so that was out of the equation. I quickly discovered that north facing slopes at high elevation were the best option. Runs such as the 1-2-3s (minus the 3) and Corner Pocket featured chopped up powder and chalky snow, respectively. Any lower than that, and the rain crust made the snow off-piste unbearable. Runs like Easter Bowl, which usually hold great snow, were garbage on this occasion. The groomers were actually skiing rather well, but I didn't travel all this way to experience Fernie’s "legendary" groomers.


Corner Pocket (w/ rope and tire entrance):



Corner Pocket (the spoils):



On the 1-2-3s:



Tuesday was actually a great day and one of the highlights of the trip. Spring temperatures and abundant sunshine meant corn on southern exposures. Off-piste runs like Cornice Chute in the Currie Bowl and the Knot Chutes above the Whitepass Chair were skiing great. The bear chutes on Polar Peak were a f***ing hoot. Deep wind sift and sloughing snow made for perfect conditions to rip these 40+ degree chutes. Sweet! Strung together with runs in the Currie Bowl, they made for some memorable 3500’+ top-to-bottom runs that I was eager to lap.


Papa Bear:



Looking up at the bear chutes:



The Knot Chutes from the Whitepass Chair:



More rain arrived on Wednesday night into Thursday causing flooding in town and further trashing the snowpack up to all but the upper most portions of the hill. Even nearby Castle Mountain, which was supposed to be my fallback, was subjected to rain at most elevations. That’s when I headed to Kicking Horse for the day––my only powder day for the week.





The rain having ended and daytime temperatures back below freezing, conditions were at their worst of the trip. On my last day of skiing at Fernie, the groomers were straight-up icy, off-piste was teeth chattering, and there were holiday weekend crowds to contend with.

Snow from an approaching weather system started to steadily fall that afternoon. I managed to squeeze in a couple laps in the Currie Bowl just as the lifts were closing and the snow started intensifying. I stopped to relish the sight of snow accumulating on the tree branches and the dollop of soft snow under my skis. The snow continued heavily into the evening and for the next couple days––well after I was gone.


Last run in the Currie Bowl:









A part of me was upset that I was missing out on the next storm cycle. But I was also equally relieved. I had witnessed the downside of Fernie for almost the entire week, so much so that I started questioning why I went there in the first place. Seeing the snow fall reminded me of how great the skiing could be.

I thought back to my powder day at Kicking Horse and how much more I would have preferred storm skiing at Fernie. With its plentiful glades and steep tree shots at all elevations, there’s more options for when the visibility gets to be dicey like it was most of the day at Kicking Horse. And while Kicking Horse has a more impressive portfolio of steeps, Fernie also has a more consistent pitch and lacks the long flat spots found mid-mountain at Kicking Horse.

Fernie may not be the safest bet, but I would certainly recommend paying a visit. The mountain has some great terrain with a lot of diversity in its offerings––from bowls, to steep glades, to undulating groomers. The town has character from its days as a mining town, and there is a small but decent selection of bars and restaurants to choose from. The people were also some of the most welcoming I’ve experienced anywhere. If you’re risk averse––stick with the Cottonwoods. But while Fernie has the potential to disappoint, it has the potential to be pretty amazing as well.


The Lizard Range from Polar Peak:

Can't begin to tell you how nice that place looks. Super jealous.. Was hoping to do a family Western trip this season - well here is to possibly next season.

Wow great TR / story telling.  Seriously great. Nice photos for us who didn't ski it too.

The place looks like a hoot..

You made the best of a bad situation..
Your story is the prime reason I won't make  reservations that can't be cancelled for a ski trip anymore..

To much money is at stake to be rained on..

Hey nice report.  Thems the breaks, you still look like you had a great time.  I book a trip each year that give me the best chance to get some snow.  I got skunked this year to on the powder...its the way it is.  I meet a lot of people that wait until the last minute to book vacation...same ones in the summer that tell me they did not make it out west.  Make a plan work a plan.  Nice job.  Its on my list.

Nice trip report, great pics!  Sorry the conditions weren't better.....

I'm with Jason, either something that keeps my options open (cancel/change), or book last minute, which is my m.o.  Of course I'm not taking long trips, I'm going solo, and using miles I don't have to worry about booking an airline ticket while it's cheap......so it's easier for me to wing it, and try to avoid getting skunked.

Great pics... you had the same crap luck as I did... I left with the same feeling, maybe next time... that place would be awesome with good snow.

Looking forward to pix from this:
http://www.firsttracksonline.com/boards/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=12327