Proper use of chain saw to clean up trails?

What happens if I use 10W30 for bar and chain oil?

Disaster, no biggie or somthin else.

No biggie -- it will be fine

Just don't use it all the time.

campgottagopee wrote

No biggie -- it will be fine

Just don't use it all the time.

Seems like a bad idea in principle, but OK. Maybe in winter when using a thinner oil that flows better is a good idea. I would guess that the thinner engine oil would get used up faster, so check your oil a lot until you figure out the pattern.

Bar oil is inexpensive and readily available. I buy the gallon jugs of the Stihl bar oil, then decant it into used smaller plastic oil bottles.

I can't believe I missed this thread when it came around the first time.  I love working with a chainsaw but am by no means a pro. Always be very focused on your work and use a sharp saw, as others have said. Know your limits. Always have an escape route.

One thing I would add about cutting up blowdowns and limbing/bucking felled trees: think about tension and what is going to happen when you make any cut. There is a lot of tension stored up in a fallen tree, and cutting the wrong branch at the wrong time can result in a pinched bar or worse. I almost had my head taken off when a smaller tree released after I cut the bigger one leaning on it.

Speaking of chains, our local Stihl dealer offers a "buy one, get the second at half price" deal on chains. I don't know if this is just them or all Stihl dealers, but it might be worth asking about at your local shop.

Another tip: clean your air filter before every use. I just started this practice recently and it makes a big difference, the saw starts easier and runs better. Use a paintbrush, not a stiff bristle brush.

The knock on it is you'll get more bar wear with extended use. I'm sure that's true but in a pinch it will work fine. I've done it before with no issues, heck this fall I used 2 stroke sled oil because I was out of bar oil.

Good advice on the air filter. I do mine annually but what you say makes perfect sense. Especially for the 2 minutes it takes to do it.

Do you use a bench grinder for sharpening? I'm thinking of getting one. Currently I just use a file and guide but that's getting old and I know I can't get it as sharp by hand vs a grinder.

campgottagopee wrote

The knock on it is you'll get more bar wear with extended use. I'm sure that's true but in a pinch it will work fine. I've done it before with no issues, heck this fall I used 2 stroke sled oil because I was out of bar oil.

Good advice on the air filter. I do mine annually but what you say makes perfect sense. Especially for the 2 minutes it takes to do it.

Do you use a bench grinder for sharpening? I'm thinking of getting one. Currently I just use a file and guide but that's getting old and I know I can't get it as sharp by hand vs a grinder.

Professional loggers will sharpen by hand with a round file and a guide. It does not take long if you do it regularly.

For anyone wanting to really learn to use a chain saw I recommend taking the Game of Logging course offered by Cornell extension. You will learn so much about saw maintenance and you will learn to drop huge trees right on target.

campgottagopee wrote

Do you use a bench grinder for sharpening? I'm thinking of getting one. Currently I just use a file and guide but that's getting old and I know I can't get it as sharp by hand vs a grinder.

I'm not very good at chain sharpening but keep trying. No grinder but also use the file and guide. I tried the Dremel tool attachment but it is hard to get the right angel. I am considering upgrading to one of these, highly recommended by two friends:

Stihl 2 in 1 file guide

Harv, you're fine. Bar oil is basically 10 weight for winter and 30 weight for summer. It's just not rated the same as motor oil. (SAE)

Removed a ton of blowdown from our trails.  

Out of oil, one or two cuts left, I'm just going to drop a small amount in.

Some will undoubtedly remain in there for a while.

Thanks for the quick responses, saves me driving to town.

PeeTex wrote

campgottagopee wrote

The knock on it is you'll get more bar wear with extended use. I'm sure that's true but in a pinch it will work fine. I've done it before with no issues, heck this fall I used 2 stroke sled oil because I was out of bar oil.

Good advice on the air filter. I do mine annually but what you say makes perfect sense. Especially for the 2 minutes it takes to do it.

Do you use a bench grinder for sharpening? I'm thinking of getting one. Currently I just use a file and guide but that's getting old and I know I can't get it as sharp by hand vs a grinder.

Professional loggers will sharpen by hand with a round file and a guide. It does not take long if you do it regularly.

For anyone wanting to really learn to use a chain saw I recommend taking the Game of Logging course offered by Cornell extension. You will learn so much about saw maintenance and you will learn to drop huge trees right on target.

A round file is what I learned to sharpen the chain with. Repetition got me pretty good at it. It takes a while to figure out how much or how little to sharpen the varying degree of dullness on each tooth. Getting each tooth relatively equal isn’t rocket appliances but it’s not that easy either. I miss it.

A sharp chain feels real good.

I did a cert class with ACE this past summer and hadn’t used a saw in 3 or 4 years. It was like riding a bike and I ended up getting that cert in a day instead of the three scheduled.

This thread reminds me I need to drop off my old (ancient, really) Farm Boss at the power equipment shop for servicing.  The pull broke last time I tried to use it, hopefully it’s not totally fucked.

campgottagopee wrote

Good advice on the air filter. I do mine annually but what you say makes perfect sense. Especially for the 2 minutes it takes to do it.

Mine was running a little rough yesterday.  Most likely due for a cleaning.

JTG4eva! wrote

This thread reminds me I need to drop off my old (ancient, really) Farm Boss at the power equipment shop for servicing.  The pull broke last time I tried to use it, hopefully it’s not totally fucked.

I’ve never used a farm boss but the stilhl pull cords are really easy to fix.

JTG4eva! wrote

This thread reminds me I need to drop off my old (ancient, really) Farm Boss at the power equipment shop for servicing.  The pull broke last time I tried to use it, hopefully it’s not totally fucked.

The old farm boss saws are virtually indestructible. Mine is late 80s vintage.

Here's how the pro's do it. My cuZin removing a little pine tree feet away from condo's in LP

Bet that was one expensive tree.

No doubt --- took them 2 days to get it down