Proper use of chain saw to clean up trails?

I take care of some xc ski trails and often have to clean up deadfalls. If they are small I use a hand saw (much quieter!), but with a big storm we get a bunch of trees some quite large. The knowledge in this forum is formidable, so I ask the collected wisdom:
What are the best methods, tips and tricks to use a small (18") chainsaw to cut 18" and bigger downed trees?

Note: I had never had the chain sharpened on my used saw, and when I used a full tank of gas to not quite cut through a 16" tree in 2 places, I decided to have it done. Now it cuts fast and easy, even without using full throttle. Way cheaper than I expected, only $8. They told me I should get chips, not dust like I had been getting.

Learn to sharpen your chain and keep it that way. When I was doing tree work we would sharpen our chains at least once every few days.

We've got about 2 miles of xc trail which really isn't that much. But I finally broke down and bought 2 saws. The big saw is a lot to carry around the loop, but I don't want to risk arriving late one night with a big tree down across the driveway and having to use a little saw to get through a big tree in the dark while the family waits.

Also while know I should probably sharpen my own blades, I don't. If I'm having one serviced, I still have the other on hand.  Sharp blades are the only way to go.

I know this probably doesn't help, but that's my input.

Don’t ever call your chain/bar your “blades”

Sorry Harv, I couldn’t resist!

I'll try to remember. Actually I'm not sure I ever did it before.

Greif I also use loppers and nippers and at times a hand saw.  I can't take a walk on our loop before dark with some kind of trimmer in my hand.

My advise would be to find a class at your local Cornel Co-Op, assuming you live in NY.
 Chain-saws are dangerous! I never work without chaps and a helmet, use wedges often, touch sharpen every gas and oil fill-up. And if I can get away with using a hand saw  that is the way I go. Silky Sugawawa or Zubat you will be amazed at what these saws are capable of and how fast they cut.

Ya, I’m pretty sure I did one day when I first started and the whole crew laughed their asses off at me.

BRLKED wrote

......chaps and a helmet, use wedges often......

Chaps and a helmet?  Prolly good advice, but not something I ever used.  Wedge?  Cutting a proper wedge SHOULD be enough, but using an actual wedge is probably more good advice.....

You want to avoid cutting low near the dirt if you can. Once the saw hits dirt, the chain will need sharpening. Try to cut from the high end of the tree so the rounds open up and fall on their own. Watch out for springing action as you finish each cut! Most saws are 2 tanks of gas to one tank of bar oil. If the saw pulls to one side it's time to flip the bar. Let the saw work, don't force it too much. I prefer the most aggressive chain possible. No anti kick chains. Dremel makes a chain sharpening tool that speeds up sharpening time. Wear gloves and a face shield. Firm grip and take breaks frequently. Hydrate those forearm muscles!

JTG4eva! wrote

BRLKED wrote

......chaps and a helmet, use wedges often......

Chaps and a helmet?  Prolly good advice, but not something I ever used.  Wedge?  Cutting a proper wedge SHOULD be enough, but using an actual wedge is probably more good advice.....

If your doing tree work all day long you are gonna fuck up from time to time. Chaps are a must imo. You carry multiple wedges on your person as well and with the really really big trees you are gonna use em.

So the wedge helps insure a big tree will fall the way you intend?

I have a few trees I'd like to drop, but I've never touched them because I'm not sure which way they would fall.

Yeah, a plastic wedge will get you out of a jam when the log squeezes the bar. (Think cutting the middle of a log that is only supported on the ends. It will fall in the middle where you're cutting like a "V".) "Safety. No Compromise."

Harv, a wedge also helps open up the cut so the tree doesn't "sit" on the bar. (Standing trees that haven't fallen yet)
https://www.familyhandyman.com/landscaping/how-to-cut-down-a-tree/view-all/

Most of my plastic wedge use is on down trees, avoiding pinched bars.  A wedge cut is almost always necessary  on a standing tree.

One of the downsides of not living on your property:

I had three Poplars that were supposed to be dropped before construction of our building. Due to some kind of miscommunication between the logger and I, they were never dropped.  They are a danger to our buildings and I don't feel like I can safely drop them. Actually one fell on it's own in a storm and missed everything.  

I'd really like the other two down.  Nobody seems willing to attempt it. I'm sure if I find someone it will be expensive.

Is that a challenge?

raisingarizona wrote

If your doing tree work all day long you are gonna fuck up from time to time. Chaps are a must imo. You carry multiple wedges on your person as well and with the really really big trees you are gonna use em.

Hey, I never claimed to be a pro!  Having dropped quite a few trees as a homeowner I relied on proper notching....and the safety of the come along on the big trees.

I can see how a wedge would be useful in avoiding a pinched bar on a felled tree.....

JTG4eva! wrote

raisingarizona wrote

If your doing tree work all day long you are gonna fuck up from time to time. Chaps are a must imo. You carry multiple wedges on your person as well and with the really really big trees you are gonna use em.

Hey, I never claimed to be a pro!  Having dropped quite a few trees as a homeowner I relied on proper notching....and the safety of the come along on the big trees.

Shit, I’m far from a pro too! Maybe the very best of the bestbtarely need a wedge but my rookie arse sure did a lot.

How long did you do tree work johhnyonthespot?

I only did it full time for one season but I still help out from time to time. I think I’m doing a week long job this December taking out hazard trees along the Core trails in the Grand Canyon.