blizzak vs pirelli snow tires

I don't even know what a perogy is.  

I got lazy, I run my fronts down to the nub and replace them. The rears last about twice as long.

Hoser wrote

Doing the math it’s a wash of buying snows every two years full time or every four years as using summer tires each six months.    At $15 per tire to switch that’s $120 a year or $480 over the four year period.    Plus summer tires assume $75 each or $300.  

So additional $780 every for years.   If I can get four snows for $200 it’s a wash plus avoid 8 trips to tire dealer.   Although I am there anyway for rotations.    

To make it work would need another set of rims then do the switch each six months myself.  No idea how much rims run.  Would have to be less than the $120 switch fee per year times life of vehicle.   I need an excel sheet I think.

Steel rims pay for themselves in two years, totally the way to go. Don't forget you need to rotate your tires (since you are running winters all year round). Instead, you can tell the shop to swap your wheels in place of a tire rotation. So your tire swap is a cost that needs to be paid for either way, so not swapping wheels does not eliminate the cost.

Also, by running winters, you extend the life of your all season tires many years. So don't forget to add in the cost of another pair of all seasons if you aren't using winter tires. Winter tires also cost a lot more than all seasons.

There is no way you are going to come up on top by buying new all winter tires every two years and running them all year. Don't forget you get worse fuel efficiency and performance on winters (which will cost you at the pump) and they are not as responsive so you are running a great safety risk during non-snowy months. When you are at the end of life on winters, due to driving them so often at +100* street temps, they are going to be really unsafe by the end of their life.

Get yourself some cheap steel rims (get em' used if you really want to save some bucks and change em' yourself if you really want to come out ahead, I can't be bothered with that) and they'll pay for themselves by not having to pay a mechanic to swap the tires on the rims.

To the topic at hand, careful with Tire Rack reviews of winter tires. They are strongly biased towards icy performance rather than deep snow performance. I've tried most of the best brands and settled on Generals. Blizzak's are great but aren't worth the premium unless ice performance is more valuable than snow performance. Can't speak for Pirelli.

I agree with RiverCoil. I bought some OEM rims with 1 year old snows off of a guy on one of my vehicle's online forums.  I spent I think $400.  It's been well worth it.

Also, FWIW, I have had good experiences running General Arctic Altimax Snow tires in the past.  I think their grip and durability were better than the Nokian Hakkapeliittas I had.  

Some valid considerations thanks.   Rotations free with purchase ok built into price so that’s a save.  Agree it’s important.

One thing not mentioned here is astectics.  Crappy $75 rims nov to April vs the sexy factory rims.   Assuming no hub caps here

Lastly wouldn’t the ice ratings be more valid for adks?   The state counties towns remove the snow well.  It’s the ice underneath.  Or frozen snow if there is a difference.  

Steep unplowed driveway different story.   But the 90 10 rule applies.   What is the intent and majority of driving?

I couldn’t make the math work to buy rims.  The rims were $400 for the ugly ones plus another 200 for the pressure sensors.  It was a 4 year payback vs extra labor costs which made no sense to do.

I did get a screaming good deal at prioritytireoutlet.com on  pirelli snows that got ecceptional ratings in several tire reviews.  $300 for 4 tires shipping included.

Hoser wrote

One thing not mentioned here is astectics.  Crappy $75 rims nov to April vs the sexy factory rims.   Assuming no hub caps here

I suck it up.  Black steel rims in the winter that I change myself.  Not much to look at, but the alternative is to have the alloy rims that get pitted and will eventually cause leaks.  Also, the steel rims provide a lot more "coverage" than do my alloys.  Helps keep salt & gravel out vs. being able to see half the rotor.

Also, I change them myself.  Torque wrench and floor jack for, what, $250 maybe?  Plus I get a good look myself as to how the brakes are, what the rust is doing, etc.

Even if you change them yourself the payback sucks unless you don’t do the pressure transducers.  I’m not willing to put up with the warning system all winter.  On a Subaru it’s pretty annoying.  

I’ve got better things to do with 600 bucks