Today's Climb

It was my first time climbing there. We did climb at the Trapps the day before though, and I got out to the Delaware water gap a week ago so it wasn't my first day of the season. After the first 30 feet the route takes gear at will, so it's a pretty safe option. Unlike most of the climbs there, I hear.

I heard you had to rap into that climb ...If so one hell of  commitment..

Hey Jeff, we should meet up again for a day of easy climbing...I haven't climbed in a while..

Yeah definitely more committing than the Trapps or the Nears. You need two ropes to rap in, so you can fix a single line and ascend it at the end of the day if you can't make it up your climb.

Nice goin' JJP!  I've hiked out to the top of Millbrook, never climbed there. But what I know about it is it's pretty hardcore.  I think all the climbs require a rap in.  Most (including Westward Ha) start at the "Death Ledge," so named for the 30 or so feet of loose, unprotected climbing above.  Above that zone the climbs are supposed to be great, but well above the grade I climb at.  If anything goes wrong, you're a long way from help.  Kudos for knocking off a tough one!  Any more pcis?

Yeah Jason, we should get out for a day again.  I love just clicking the biners and touching the rock.  Easy is good.

Yeah I have a bunch more. Here are a couple:


Classic gunks scene on the approach




Looking south from the rappel


The last pitch. Reminded me of Arrow minus the puzzling crux move, and with a few finger locks thrown in


At the top there's a cool diving board feature you can scramble down to and just soak in the exposure


Finishing out the day on Layback, certainly the most exposed 5.3 I've ever been on.

jjp24 wrote

Finishing out the day on Layback, certainly the most exposed 5.3 I've ever been on.

I thought I was on Minty (5.4) one time, but stepped out onto the face in the wrong spot. I was like this is really committing 5.3! Turns out it's some 5.8R or something. Gunks life!

So jealous of you right now, I really miss the gunks!

ml242 wrote

I thought I was on Minty (5.4) one time, but stepped out onto the face in the wrong spot. I was like this is really committing 5.3! Turns out it's some 5.8R or something. Gunks life!

Haha that's pretty funny. On Monday I was leading Moonlight (scariest 5.6 ever?) and after the crux I got way off route onto Keep On Struttin', which is apparently a pretty classic 5.9+. Luckily the climbing at that section was easily protectable and very nice, probably a 5.7 or 5.8 stemming corner on beautiful white rock. It caused me some Herculean rope drag though.

That second pitch of moonlight is so airy and amazing. I don't have the head for that lead either!

Looking forward to today's report!

Ha I was at home with my family for Easter. Would've been great climbing weather though! I'll be there next weekend I think.

http://eveningsends.com/punk-in-the-gym/

Pretty nice day on Crane Mountain. It was my first time there, so much rock to explore. Can't wait to go back!

jjp24 wrote

Pretty nice day on Crane Mountain. It was my first time there, so much rock to explore. Can't wait to go back!

Very cool JJP.  I've wanted to climb at Crane for a long time, have yet to make it over there.  Crane is a really big, spread out place.  I'm actually thinking of hiring a guide (Jay Harrison is the Crane guru) to help me get some spots dialed in for some family climbing.  Maybe this will be the summer.

Adk Jeff wrote

Very cool JJP.  I've wanted to climb at Crane for a long time, have yet to make it over there.  Crane is a really big, spread out place.  I'm actually thinking of hiring a guide (Jay Harrison is the Crane guru) to help me get some spots dialed in for some family climbing.  Maybe this will be the summer.

Yeah I'd highly recommend it. We spent most of the day on the South Corner Cliffs, which had lots of really great moderates. The Black Arches wall was closed due to nesting Peregrines, it's supposed to be the best wall there. The Adk Rock guidebook has really good instructions and aside from one brief snafu we didn't have any problem with navigation.

If you're planning on going over the summer shoot me a PM, I'll probably be there a fair amount.

Gunks on Saturday, Lost T in the Southern Adks on Sunday

Though the climbers on this board would enjoy this short documentary. This was produced by a couple of local NCW climber. The Stuart Range is an iconic zone in the Central Cascades.

THOSE DUDES ARE TOUGH!

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