Today's Climb

Harvey wrote

Jeff re your comment in the other thread (can't even remember which one)... I read this TR in bed and Zelda was pushing me to hit the lights (plus as we know the forum sucks on a phone).  My clap was shorthand for "I am continually blown away by what you do with your kids, they are lucky to be lead into adventure by an adventurer."

I especially like that he takes his kids out for wings & beer afterwards.

Shit, I missed this too... what a day! Amazing!

Also, Jeff - I don't know how this went under the radar. I guess with the gun news. One other thing I like about the TR is that besides the stunning pics and adventurous life you're sharing with the family, the use of helmets kind of excites me. I see a lot of people setting bad examples, and you just never know when something is going to fall off a cliff or when you're going to take a weird fall. I was looking through Gripped the other day, and I don't get how they can still publish pics of people without them. There was also a sponsored ice climber who had his helmet so far back, it would do nothing if he caught something coming down while in his belay stance.

I know that's a separate issue, and people can do what they want, but climbing is inherently dangerous and all that for sure!

Really nice report again.

I missed it to pretty impressive, really impressive.  You always have great reports.  The whining seemed a little out of character.

Thanks guys, I appreciate it!  I was trying (unsuccessfully) not to whine, but to me trip reports are the soul of the Forum, so it's nice to know they get read.

Adk Jeff wrote

trip reports are the soul of the Forum

100%

IMO: The big threads are cool especially for people who want to post a single pic or a few sentences, but I think if you are going to put that kind of effort into a report you should separate it out. More people will notice it.

Harvey wrote

Adk Jeff wrote

trip reports are the soul of the Forum

100%

IMO: The big threads are cool especially for people who want to post a single pic or a few sentences, but I think if you are going to put that kind of effort into a report you should separate it out. More people will notice it.

I agree, that report definitely is worthy of its' own thread.

I also want to give kudos to you, Jeff.  I've got my 9, almost 10 year old daughter skiing huge, spring bumps on Superstar in May, but you and yours put us to shame!  Someone needs to write a large piece for Outside Magazine about your family!  

La Valse 5.6 PG13

That climb has some heady sections, steep slab, little traverses... need a 70m to rap.

Crazy thing about today was the bugs. Black flies, mosquitos, and no-see-ums all out. I got torn up!

You lead?

Yeah, thankfully there was a bolt on the upper slab.

I think the gunks kind of spoiled me a bit. I'm really enjoying climb other areas, but even on a "classic", nothing is as good for the grade as what you can find in the trapps. Or maybe I just hate all this slab everywhere, but it's two sides of the same coin. The gunks provide steep, well protected, wildly airy, and awesome climbs at moderate grades.

I know nothing about the climbing up there (Val David?), but yeah, you can get kinda spoiled climbing in the Gunks.  On the other hand, I find I no longer have the patience for the crowds down there.  Which is why the Adks are so freaking awesome for climbing - you just walk up to a 5-star route and climb away. I can't remember the last time I waited to get on a route in the 'dacks.

I agree in principle. You just won't wait in the dacks outside of Lake George on a nice day, then there could be three boats in front of you. But like a ski resort, the gunks can be gamed to avoid a wait. Arrive early, beat the crowds to classics, continue walking down. I am not super picky so if I can't get on High E, I don't care with Moonlight right there.

That said, not every crag's 5 star climb is comparable to each others!

We gotta get out sometime, Jeff. Maybe when the LP crew does their beerfest we can get on the beer walls. I'll be packing (DEET) if it's anytime soon, too.

Lots of climbing over the past two months for me, I've been blessed with good health, good weather, and lots of free time. I figured I'd dump a couple photos on here.


Lake George from the Shelving Rock cliff


The Good Luck Cliff


Quadrophenia at Hurricane crag, perhaps my new favorite route


Traversing on P2 of the El at Pitchoff


The Diagonal on Wallface


Hesitation, Upper Washbowl Cliff


Bonnie's Roof, Gunks


P3 of Little Finger Direct, Roger's Rock


The Empress on the Chapel Pond Slabs, which Jeff mentioned earlier


The California Flake, Avalanche Lake


The Trap Dike on Mt. Colden, probably the best scrambling route in the Adks

Wow. Talk about awesome pics.

Holy $hit, you did all those climbs this spring?  That is like the A-list of Adk climbing.  Bravo.

Adk Jeff wrote

Holy $hit, you did all those climbs this spring?  That is like the A-list of Adk climbing.  Bravo.

Yeah can we get a HUDGE story or three? Any epics? This is FRONT PAGE material, knocks the socks off my humble day top roping at Mont Rigaud!