Today's Climb

Set up a TR on easy overhang in the trapps. Not recommended at all for that purpose, but at 5.2 it is probably the easiest and most interesting climbing around for a beginner. I just wish I had ever been before so I could have brought her up to the ledge, because neither of us were expecting a complete climb to the top. But, even lowering is kind of hard right there so it really isn't the best spot to TR.

But fun was still had.

Nice, I took my brother up Easy O for his first multi-pitch a month or two ago. That second pitch is pretty wild for 5.2! You can get some pretty cool shots of your follower from the piton anchor on that little airy ledge.


A week ago I got up to the Adirondacks with a pit stop on Saturday in the Gunks. Great weather and good times on some classic routes!


Alphonse in the Gunks


From P2 of the Weissner Route, Upper Washbowl


No better way to end a day of climbing


Didn't have a partner for the last day so I went up the Eagle slide on Giant

I like that shot on Easy O.  It's hard to get good climbing pics, most of mine end up being non-flattering butt shots. Pics taken from above always come out better.

Was that your first time up on Washbowl Cliff (Weissner Route)?  Cool spot eh?  I'd love to bivy on that huge ledge.

Yeah it was my first time up there, pretty incredible. Would love to do Prelude to Overture sometime soon, speaking of photogenic climbs. The picture in the guidebook makes it look out of this world. Have you ever done it?

Easy O was my first lead...Real fun climb!!!
The moves off the GT are a bit exposed for 5.2...

ml242 wrote

Set up a TR on easy overhang in the trapps. Not recommended at all for that purpose, but at 5.2 it is probably the easiest and most interesting climbing around for a beginner. I just wish I had ever been before so I could have brought her up to the ledge, because neither of us were expecting a complete climb to the top. But, even lowering is kind of hard right there so it really isn't the best spot to TR.

But fun was still had.

Did set up the TR off the chains?...Never saw that pitch TR...I guess if it's not crowed , why not..

yeah, it was empty and mid-week.

built a gear anchor though, I don't like using the chains unnecessarily, but it would have been faster. Seriously though, i'd never top rope there again.

jjp24 wrote

Yeah it was my first time up there, pretty incredible. Would love to do Prelude to Overture sometime soon, speaking of photogenic climbs. The picture in the guidebook makes it look out of this world. Have you ever done it?

Yeah, I'd love to do those too but they're a bit above my lead grade.  Partition and Hesitation too.  I need a rope gun.

My friend Nat follows me up pitch 2 of Jackie.



Went over to try Bonnie's Roof when this guy asked to "climb through".

Cool, did you pull through the Jackie P1 roof?  Sure feels harder than 5.5 to me.  I think I told you this before, but if Jackie P1 felt good give Classic a shot.

Sweet! Wish I was there, last two days have probably been great climbing weather. I've been in that area a couple times to do Ursula and Sleepwalk, Bonnie's has always looked enticing but it's a bit beyond my lead level at this point. Heading up to North Conway tomorrow, hoping for good weather!

I got so pumped on the crux, you can see my gear to the left of the free soloist. I had to come down when we realized that the 60m was not going to be enough to get to the real ledge anyway and went down for the 70 and water. After messing around in the overhanging section, my buddy finished it for me.

jeff - i was going to lead classic, but let my buddy instead. Nat then got freaked out by the first little overhang on jackie and then I finished up both pitches. Quite a day of swapping leads!

All this Gunks talk is making me miss the place...

finally led the tower wall today. rachel's crack is filthy for a starred climb! still, it's headier than the shorter harder graded climbs on the stockade wall. and wine at par at the restaurant from the vinter down the way while sitting in the backyard was a nice treat on a hot day. Twas a good weekend.

Climbing season!

looks like the Near Trapps

Nope, we hiked out to do Westward Ha on Millbrook. Long hike out, but great views along the way and a stellar route.

The white cliff!

yep..never hiked out there..looks like a great day..

the southern end of the nears has some white rock too..

Millbrook... yikes!  Starting out the season at full throttle, eh?  Have you climbed at Millbrook before?