Today's Climb

ML, no I've just hiked the LT through Brandon Gap, haven't done any climbing there.  In fact I think the only climbing I've done in VT is at Lake Dunmore and also that crag at the top of Killington Pass, Deer Leap or Lover's Leap or whatever it's called (it's a worthwhile crag if you haven't been there yet).
The little bit of beta I could scour up on the internet for Birds of Prey sounds pretty exciting - thin pro, runout.

Cool pics JJ, where is Lost T, I'm not familiar with that crag at all?

Need to hike and ride with you guys soon.

I have never really climbed though would like to learn. I know Rock and Snow in New Paltz would occasionally run classes.  Any suggestions that can be done with the family?

Oh - Happy Mom's Day - even to those dads too.

It is in the Silver Lake Wilderness in Arietta. I think it was discovered fairly recently. There's a great online guide at http://thomannengineering.com/software/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/Lost_T_Guide.pdf. These guys have been developing cliffs all over the southern Adirondacks.

Skiray wrote

Need to hike and ride with you guys soon.

I have never really climbed though would like to learn. I know Rock and Snow in New Paltz would occasionally run classes.  Any suggestions that can be done with the family?

Oh - Happy Mom's Day - even to those dads too.

I had a good experience with EMS in New Paltz..R&S will direct you to one of the guide services..

Skiray wrote

Need to hike and ride with you guys soon.

I have never really climbed though would like to learn. I know Rock and Snow in New Paltz would occasionally run classes.  Any suggestions that can be done with the family?

Oh - Happy Mom's Day - even to those dads too.

you can't go wrong with anyone. climbing attracts a very good crowd for the most part. bright people that have sacrificed quite a bit to make nothing in order to climb more.

most of the gyms will set you up with a day at a cheap rate with gear and a lessonish thing to introduce you to the sport with someone like that. a good instructor, more than competent (and better than I'll ever be), but not a pro. Maybe Tennis is like this, but more spendy? Anyway, this is in some ways comparable to a beginners lift package, but a little more limited (and less expensive). Every gym besides chelsea piers will do this. BKB, Cliffs, MPHC, etc.

If you really want to go outside for your first time at the Gunks (I would rather do a practice day or 2 indoors first to make the most of it), any of the guide services will be able to help you (and I like them all) but I really like Bobby at High Xposure. I've hung out with him the most and find him to be helpful, accommodating, and very cool (so are his guides) and he has the system down pat with shoes/helmets/harnesses/etc and a wealth of knowledge.

The Gunks are like the Jackson of climbing, so it's interesting and impressive, and super fun but not really where you need to be your first time exactly.

The closest spot to your residence is the Powerlinez, which I've also written about here a couple of times. It is not the gunks, but that has pros and cons. If you want to do a guided day there with the fam, try to get Jon Crefeld (he wrote the guidebook), he's an awesome guy and can be booked through Alpine Endeavors. I am not sure if they can outfit a day the same way but you would be in good hands.

Adk Jeff wrote

ML, no I've just hiked the LT through Brandon Gap, haven't done any climbing there.  In fact I think the only climbing I've done in VT is at Lake Dunmore and also that crag at the top of Killington Pass, Deer Leap or Lover's Leap or whatever it's called (it's a worthwhile crag if you haven't been there yet).
The little bit of beta I could scour up on the internet for Birds of Prey sounds pretty exciting - thin pro, runout.

The development there seems to barely scratch the surface.

I've climbed at those same places btw, plus Bolton Quarry and Smugglers Notch and both are worth visiting as well. Here's Ganesh, the signature climb in the notch on the cover of the guidebook:

That's just an awesome pic ^^.  Makes the exposure on High E look trivial.
There's been lots of rock climbing development in the Notch over the last decade, it used to be basically just ice climbing in there.  I don't have that guidebook but it looks worth picking up.

Hey, to be fair High E is a 5.6... Ganesh is a supposedly a sandbagged 11d that's really a mid 12! aka, not in my league yet. Outside of a couple of bolts, you're on your own!

5.11d... yikes!  That will never be in my league!  The guys that can climb at that level... wow.

Ray, I can personally recommend Alpine Endeavors (Marty Molitoris).

Do you have any climbing experience yourself?  If you're already comfortable setting toprope anchors, I can recommend the Peterskill area in the Gunks for good family climbing.  It is relatively uncrowded (compared to the Trapps) and has plenty of quality routes that are suitable toprope climbs for kids who are just beginning to learn the ropes.  We did a family outing there 2 or 3 years ago.

Need advice from climbing folks.  I'm new to climbing but am climbing 3-5 times a week at gym/outside for the past three months (when I started)...just hurt my ring finger on a super crimpy boulder problem.  I think my A2 pulley.  Not swollen..but hurts a lot when I push it back.  Whats the protocol?  Just rest for a couple weeks?  How can I avoid losing my gains?  Such a bummer.

2c:

I would take 4-6 weeks off and then cut back your climbing to 2 days week to build up your strength a little slower.

It takes years to get your ligaments in climbing shape, and injuries will wipe out the hard work. I've only been climbing for a few years and have months to random injuries and know your pain (literally and figuratively). Not that they prevented me from doing other stuff but you really want to let your body heal from climbing injuries if you want to have a nice long career climbing. If it doesn't heal all the way you'll feel it and it will get worse forever.

If you have 5c, you may want to see a physical therapist though.

and if you send me your email, i can send you back an interesting pdf.

Thank so much man!  4-6 weeks!!  That's a bummer.  I guess I pushed too hard.  donaldboyajian@gmail.com  Thanks!

Just another perspective here.  Instead of a time out, how about backing off and climbing well below your grade? Skip the crimpy, bouldery gym style climbing for the 4-6 weeks and focus on easy trad (emphasis on easy). Work on your foot technique, which is where 90% of climbing comes from anyway.  If you are leading, time invested in building anchors and placing pro on easy, comfortable climbs will give you the experience you need to climb safely and confidently.  

anchor building, knots, and placements on flat ground all sound good to me. I know when I'm hurt though, it takes a lot of effort not to reinjure something by staying on the easy stuff. Even if I'm doing something easy, I still might decide to skip a few holds or dyno, or just grab something the wrong way. But in general, i agree with Jeff. There's a lot to climbing that isn't simply finishing a route at your toughest grade yet.

Here's another article with some advice I can appreciate:
http://eveningsends.com/climbing/apply-the-80-20-rule-to-your-climbing-to-get-the-most-gains-out-of-the-least-effort/

Cool.  Great suggestions.  I need to learn more outdoor stuff.  

I'm not even sure what I hurt..probably a pulley.  Only hurts with very specific movements.  I started in Feb...only climbed outside once (just a lot of barriers to entry, I guess).  

But..the gym is so close to my apartment (1 mile)...and at least go boulder like 30 minutes after work, just to pass the time.  I think I bumped up grades too quick..my tendons and ligaments had not caught up.  

The problem is...I am so competitive...I just want to get really good, really fast.  It also doesn't help that Daniel Woods and other world class climbers work out at my gym...further pushes me to want to get better too fast.

What I've realized...is that it take years to get tendon strength...and also... I need to get over pushing grades.

I can't find it but I saw a movie last year that featured Robert Alain talking about his training and goals. When the interviewer asked whether he felt like he shouldn't reveal his buildering dreams until he'd accomplished them lest someone else get his FA he remarked that his training was so tendon specific any other climber would have to spend 20 years doing his finger exercises to be able to have a chance. It was a brag, but there may be some truth to it.

I'll echo what ML and AdkJeff said, I've only been climbing 3 years and I think I've probably spent a full year in total on the sidelines. Just getting over a nagging shoulder injury right now.

You should see if there's any slab climbing nearby, it generally won't stress your fingers at all and will really help your footwork.

Got out to Shanty Cliff in the Siamese Ponds Wilderness for a couple pitches this afternoon. Great little spot with a pretty good variety of climbs. Even a couple sport climbs, pretty rare for the Adirondacks.


River crossing to start the day


Great views over the Siamese Ponds Wilderness and Wilcox Lake Wild Forest


Some climbs way beyond my ability level, a 10c fingercrack and 11 face climb I think