Today's Climb

ml242 wrote

led a 5.3 vertical crack today, a true beauty. What a weekend.

Nice, Gunks?

Good day in the Gunks on Sunday! My lead head has not yet woken up from hibernation...

Bottom shot looks like Minty..
I'm sure the place was a Zoo this past weekend..

The top picture is actually looking south from the P1 belay on Minty. Third pic is P1 of Sixish. Yeah it was pretty crowded, not quite as bad as I had feared though. Hoping to get to the Adirondacks this weekend to avoid the crowds.

The first move on sixish is real bitch for me...

the exposure on minty is hard for me. would like to give sixish a try. my lead head is nowhere near where it should be, i'd love to follow some people that actually know the routes. it's so easy to get yourself in a tough spot when you don't know the way, and climbing is hard enough as it is.

did you guys catch this? I had no idea the gunks had a 14 or what one would look like.

https://vimeo.com/12057089

Try leading Betty,Easy O or 3 Pines(now 2 Pines) .. Supper solid gear and lots of huge buckets...Also amazing climbs...

 

ml242 wrote

 

did you guys catch this? I had no idea the gunks had a 14 or what one would look like.

https://vimeo.com/12057089

Holy crap. That guy is amazing. I love how he has to clean his own route. Who the hell could follow that?

Any of you hippies watch Valley Uprising on Discovery channel the other night?? Cool history of rock climbing --- better check it out if you missed it.

I thought Sixish was great, the traverse on P3 is pretty awesome. I did think it was very tough for the grade, much harder than Horseman.

it's the opening moves on 6ish..I hate gunks traverses..me no likie..
MadamG's is my fav..I can't lead it, but I love the hanging belay..and the free rap at the end..you get religion when you do that rappel ...

I love the traverses, although they sometimes freak me out a little. I took someone out for their first multi pitch climb on Madame G's this fall, the hanging belay freaked my partner out a bit. I was definitely happy to get a fourth piece in for that anchor, haha. The exposure on that third pitch is unreal.

never done madame g's or horseman, too busy.

The freaking traverse from directissima to high e freaked me out though. i need to give that traverse another try so i could do it with a little more style.

the climb is a beaut though. via mtn project:



Valley Uprising ruled, talk about the good old days!

I find following a traverse worse than leading , especially if the leader doesn't put in a lot of gear. The thought of going for a ride on the cheese grader just freaks me out..

Wow - sweet thread. Just discovered it...and just discovered climbing this past year.  Been going to the gym a few months, and just got outside for the first time a few weeks ago.  What an activity!

Two from lake dunmore in VT from last week after skiing. Great place, the summer sounds buggy and crowded but the early spring was empty and amazing. No multi pitch but bring a 70mm if you want to get after the more adventurous climbs. Great freaking place.

Yeah, cool place.  Climbed there a few years back, nice top-rope cliff with great views.  Vermont doesn't really have tons of great climbing, but this is a nice spot.

Jeff, have you done anything at Mount Horrid / Brandon Gap? It was closed for falcons (so were the higher rarely climbed cliffs at Dunmore). It looks pretty intense, maybe 3 pitches of ten+ adventure climbing on the right side. The most famous climb there is a 70ft spire that goes up like a granite needle, 5.8x, called birds of prey. I think there's a shorter one as well, maybe I could put up a new route and call it the Cerro Brandon.

Awesome pics. I'm going to be in Northern Vermont in August for a family wedding so I'm hoping to check out some of the climbing then.

Got out to the best semi-local crag this morning for a couple pitches. All single-pitch, mostly high quality crack lines ranging from 5.7 to 5.11. It's called Lost T in the Southern Adirondacks. It was my first time climbing cracks since last fall so much hilarity ensued.


Classic butt-shot


Little Kisses, apparently one of the best pitches of 5.9 in New York

that Looks AWESOME!

I was going to head to the gunks tomorrow but 88 and sunny has me scared of the full day commitment. Maybe linez instead for the half win. I've never lead the Tower, I think my 60 will reach the top but bailing would be a problem if something went wrong.

hmmmm