Charger Love....

K man wrote

Vector love for sure.  They are just nice light fatish skis on the uphill, but when it turns down Vectors are a blast.

Darkside Shaman wrote

Yes, sometimes being a ski whore pays off...

Telemark Dave wrote

If you insist on using liquids, then go with the Toko.  It has a wide applicator.  Unfortunately, the formula has been revised so you won't get a buzz from the fumes anymore.  

zardoznotwax.com wrote

NOTwax is an inert liquid, so it will not affect the glue of your skins. However, if you put it on right before your skins, the base will be somewhat wet with NOTwax and the skins will have trouble sticking. It's best to apply NOTwax at the top of your climb after pulling your skins off. Otherwise, just polish the base after applying NOTwax with a tissue or shirt sleeve and then attach your skins. NOTwax can also be used as a quick fix on the skin material to reduce icing (this is how we originally discovered it), on the top sheets and binding plates to reduce snow build up, on sleds, squeaky bindings, stuck twist lock mechanisms, and any other moving part. It’s a great multi-purpose lubricant for every backcountry skier’s tool kit. It works extremely well on the furry side of the skin to help prevent the buildup of snow and ice. As far as the glue, NOTwax is completely inert, so it has no reaction or interference with the glue. However, trying to stick anything to a wet surface is difficult. What we recommend is that people apply NOTwax after they take their skins off and they're getting ready to ski. Otherwise, if they apply NOTwax first, they should buff their ski with a tissue to make sure there is no wet residue of NOTwax before applying their skins. If they are doing "yo-yo" skiing (where you climbing up with your skins, ski down, then climb up again) the NOTwax that they applied at the top run will be sufficiently polished by the time they get down, so that there won't be any issue of applying their skins for the next run.